Saturday, July 29, 2006
rock art
Day Four of our camping tour: After an early morning primer at the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre on the cultures of the different groups who lived (and still live) in the Kakadu area, we hiked out to Nourlangie Rock to see the rock art, such as Ms. Nipply pictured here (a bad spirit).
This overhanging rock was used as a shelter during the Wet and has layers and layers of paintings--some possibly as old as 65 000 years. There are many many more rock art sites all around Kakadu and across Australia, some possibly 65 000 years old. Down south where we live, the recent bush fires in the Grampians National Park uncovered sites that no one knew about. There are also other sites that have restricted access due to the sacredness of the teachings and images.
At this site, there was a diversity of age and style in the paintings. Some were really old and more simplistic, such as these handprints. Others might be just a recent 200 years old--this ship records contact with the Europeans and, in other spots, lace gloves (like those worned by European women) and men with guns are painted on the rock walls.
It was amazing to see these messages from the past, the record of lives lived. Some of the stories and meaning behind the paintings have been lost when the different cultural groups have died out or been assimilated (forcibly and not). Other stories were not to be told outside a culture or gender group but there's been a recent push to break away from that tradition in order to preserve what knowledge still remains.
Here is the X-ray style of art--thought to teach the kids what fish or other animals were good to eat and which parts to cut and use. Also probably a bit of magic involved in these paintings--good luck for hunting or reverence for the creature who provides subsistence. Look closely behind the fish to see the kangaroo, an older style painting over which the XRay fish and turtle were painted.
They estimate the date of the paintings using various techiniques - some scientific - and some less so. For example, the subject of the paintings can be used to date the image - paintings of megafauna that have been extinct for 20,000 years must be at least 20,000 years old. Those showing a boomerang used in hunting would coincide with the time that the area was open dry plains instead of heavily forrested (try using a boomerang in a heavily forrested area - it doesn't work.) Those of boats, called 'Contact Art', less than 300 years old.
The paintings also have three distinct styles. The earliest form (like the handprints) are simply impressions and date back to possibly 60,000 years ago. These images were made by holding an object against the rock, filling the mouth with ochre paint and spraying it onto the rock wall. The next phase were stylistic images - like a solid kangaroo, other animals, or a series of images that tell a story. The final and most recent style is XRay art which is at most 2000 years old.
This overhanging rock was used as a shelter during the Wet and has layers and layers of paintings--some possibly as old as 65 000 years. There are many many more rock art sites all around Kakadu and across Australia, some possibly 65 000 years old. Down south where we live, the recent bush fires in the Grampians National Park uncovered sites that no one knew about. There are also other sites that have restricted access due to the sacredness of the teachings and images.
At this site, there was a diversity of age and style in the paintings. Some were really old and more simplistic, such as these handprints. Others might be just a recent 200 years old--this ship records contact with the Europeans and, in other spots, lace gloves (like those worned by European women) and men with guns are painted on the rock walls.
It was amazing to see these messages from the past, the record of lives lived. Some of the stories and meaning behind the paintings have been lost when the different cultural groups have died out or been assimilated (forcibly and not). Other stories were not to be told outside a culture or gender group but there's been a recent push to break away from that tradition in order to preserve what knowledge still remains.
Here is the X-ray style of art--thought to teach the kids what fish or other animals were good to eat and which parts to cut and use. Also probably a bit of magic involved in these paintings--good luck for hunting or reverence for the creature who provides subsistence. Look closely behind the fish to see the kangaroo, an older style painting over which the XRay fish and turtle were painted.
They estimate the date of the paintings using various techiniques - some scientific - and some less so. For example, the subject of the paintings can be used to date the image - paintings of megafauna that have been extinct for 20,000 years must be at least 20,000 years old. Those showing a boomerang used in hunting would coincide with the time that the area was open dry plains instead of heavily forrested (try using a boomerang in a heavily forrested area - it doesn't work.) Those of boats, called 'Contact Art', less than 300 years old.
The paintings also have three distinct styles. The earliest form (like the handprints) are simply impressions and date back to possibly 60,000 years ago. These images were made by holding an object against the rock, filling the mouth with ochre paint and spraying it onto the rock wall. The next phase were stylistic images - like a solid kangaroo, other animals, or a series of images that tell a story. The final and most recent style is XRay art which is at most 2000 years old.
Friday, July 28, 2006
crocs at jim jim falls
Look at this beautiful marsh area. Perfect spot for a croc, if you ask me, but that's where we ate lunch. We were on high croc alert that day. Note the signs at the start of each hiking trail that warn you of imminent danger.
We took a true 4WD out to Jim Jim Falls, none of that sissy pavement for us. Just red mud, sand and water on twisting track cutting through the trees. The falls had just recently been opened for the public but we could only go as far as the viewing area due to the danger of salties (or estuary crocs). So we had to content ourselves with a view from afar of these famous falls.
(Day Four of our Camping Tour: PM)
Sunday, July 23, 2006
pool with a view
Day three of our camping trip: One waterfall after another . . . .
As Marco, a fellow campmate said, it was like God just realized, oh, oops, he had a whole bunch of beautiful waterfalls left over during creation so he just put them all in the Top End. Scott took us hiking up and down the rocky ridges of Kakadu on this hot day, each time to a waterhole even more lovely than the one before it. The highlight of each hike was, of course, a plunge into the cool water.
Above, the view from the bottom of the popular Gunlom Falls.
The stunning view from the top of Gunlom Falls.
A steep 15 minute hike up brought us to these pretty pools at the top of the falls with their awesome view.
As Marco, a fellow campmate said, it was like God just realized, oh, oops, he had a whole bunch of beautiful waterfalls left over during creation so he just put them all in the Top End. Scott took us hiking up and down the rocky ridges of Kakadu on this hot day, each time to a waterhole even more lovely than the one before it. The highlight of each hike was, of course, a plunge into the cool water.
Above, the view from the bottom of the popular Gunlom Falls.
The stunning view from the top of Gunlom Falls.
A steep 15 minute hike up brought us to these pretty pools at the top of the falls with their awesome view.
Saturday, July 15, 2006
sheer cliff walls on either side
Day Two of our camping trip: Canoeing through the first two of nine gorges in the stunning Katherine Gorge Park. Loved the view; hated our 'canoe' and its paddles. I guess it was a sort of kayak but both of us would have prefered a Canadian style canoe--we had trouble keeping the boat straight! (And yes, it was the boat, not us.)
Look at how sun smart we are with our broad brimmed hats and me with my long sleeves. We saw some sort of water-happy snake and a little freshwater crocodile--quite shy and not at all dangerous, unless you provoke it by getting too close. Another moment of excitement was provided by our guide Scott and fellow campmate Toshi when they tipped into the water, not once, but twice. Ended the day with a spectacular sunset as we entered Kakadu to set up camp.
Us swimming with the crocs and Damo navigating the canoe around the rocks and through the white water between the two gorges.
Thursday, July 13, 2006
one beautiful waterhole after another
After successfully completing the didje playing and spear throwing challenges, our group was deemed road worthy so our guide Scott loaded us up in the back of the 4WD and off we went. Our first stop was Litchfield Park, about an hour out of Darwin, to see the massive cathedral termite mounds and the cool flatten magnetic termite mounds with their north/south axis.
Although we couldn't find the clue box amongst the termite mounds, Scott still allowed us to carry on to the next leg of the journey, a chance to cool down in the Buley waterholes. It was crowded but the day was already hot so we didn't mind. Besides, the setting was spectacular, as Buley is a gorgeous series of about seven little rock pools with cascades between each.
Refreshed, we hiked to Upper Tolmer Gorge, clambering up, over and down rocks to reach our destination (as competently demonstrated by Kiki, a fellow camper). With a guide, we were allowed to access a restricted area to swim in yet another beautiful waterhole in between the little upper falls and the significantly taller lower falls.
Mid afternoon, Scott loaded us up one more time to drive for about two hours to an old deserted World War Two airstrip near Katherine to camp for the night. We roughed it out in the middle of the wilderness, using the bush as our toilet and sleeping in swags. A swag is an Aussie bedroll--a thin mattress in a canvas (oilskin?) bag to protect you from snakes, spiders, centipedes and mozzies. The night sky was clear so we fell asleep under the stars of the Southern Cross--it was beautful.
Labels:
Australian Parks,
insects,
northern territory,
scenery
Sunday, July 09, 2006
Bong Hit or...
Question for the masses: is this a photo of Damo taking a massive bong hit or Damo learning how to play the didjeridu?
Answer: I'll leave it up to the viewer to interpret the photo. The next photo will help you in the process, or it might make you think that Nico and I stumbled upon an outdoor opium den in Northern Australia.
This was day one of our 5 day Top End 4WD guided exploration. Our guide took us to an Aboriginal protected beach. You can see one of the aboriginals in the background. Yes, he is asian looking, but we learned that the tribes from the very top end are of asian decent and look very different from the tribes in other areas. Strange eh?
After learning how to play the yadaki (one of many aboriginal names for the instrument) we moved on to spear throwing. Out of our group of nine I was the only one to hit the kangaroo which meant that I was allowed to select the prime cuts of meat at the evening's BBQ. After this trip I reckon I could kick ass on survivor.
Nico, well, she did ok despite the painful girly girl throw and would likely survive the first few votes but definitely wouldn't make it to the final eight.
After throwing spears we moved on to making aboriginal jewellry out of bark and shells. All in all it was a really cool way to start our tour as it got the group of nine strangers chatting and more relaxed.
Friday, July 07, 2006
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